Nikki Twomey

Vibrant Fukuoka

We can’t remember whether we decided to go to Fukuoka because it is one of Japan’s largest cities and the furthest South West we’d go, or because every November, for a week, Fukuoka is thrust into the nation’s spotlight as visitors flock to the city that hosts one of Japan’s six Sumo Grand Tournaments. Either …

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Okunoin, Kyosan : The Temple at the End 🇯🇵

“There are no dead in Okunoin, but only waiting spirits.”  Spending a night on Mount Koya is filled with many beautiful must-see sights but none more so than Okunoin Cemetery, Japan’s largest graveyard. It was early afternoon when we set out, but we were immediately blessed with gorgeous dappled light, showcasing the Autumn leaves in …

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Here’s looking at you, Morocco!

“Don’t bother visiting Casablanca,” said the travel bloggers, “It’s just a political hub and not worth seeing other than perhaps the Mosque.” “You can give Tangier a skip – it’s run-down and there’s little to see”. “Rabat is easily missable, it’s just another capital city.” “Marrakesh. Meh…overrun by tourists and tauts.” I’m grateful for this mis-guidance because it …

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The colour of grief: Burying the dead in Morocco

Morocco is synonymous with colour. Cities glow with burnt yellows and rich rusts; deep majorelle blue; verdant roof tiles. The towering spice displays in the souqs are a kaleidoscope of ochre, burgundy, mustard, cherry and khaki. However, this abundance of colour is completely removed when it comes to the colours of death and mourning. Traditionally, …

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Fès, Morocco – “Athens of Africa”🇲🇦

“Many destinations are interesting, but few are truly intriguing—for intrigue requires mystery; something fascinating, yet not immediately obvious. Fez, the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities, very much fits that description: It’s hypnotic, idiosyncratic, and often confounding.”  Conde Nast Traveller, Lindsay Cohn; April 11, 2022 Fès is the second largest city in Morocco after Casablanca, with …

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Chefchaouen – the “Blue Pearl” of Morocco 🇲🇦 

Chefchaouen, is one of the most mesmerising cities we’ve ever visited. A quaint and picturesque, ancient city tucked high into the north-eastern Rif mountains, perhaps it’s the relative inaccessibility that has the “Blue City” as one of Morocco’s better-kept secrets. It’s somewhat out of the way (the trip takes about four hours from Fez and …

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Casablanca, Morocco’s White City 🇲🇦

It’s always tricky to anticipate weather temperatures at a foreign destination. 24 degrees sounded a doable, mild and pleasant temperature to me. But landing at Casablanca’s Mohammed V airport – it was HOT .  After a relatively painless immigration process, our hotel shuttle took us to the centrally located Hotel Odyssee. The car journey took …

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“Fun is Back” : Our MG Roadtrip from Joburg to Cape Town

What? A road-trip without the furries… whatever next! Does it even meet the definition of a road trip?. Not sure who felt more dismayed – us or them? Wednesday Darcy watched disapprovingly as we packed our luggage into the narrow (but deeper than you think) boot, and into every other crevice we could find without …

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Chicago!

Halloween is a special time to be in the USA. The entire month of October seems to be dedicated to show-stopping decorations something Chicagoans do so well! Our Airbnb was conveniently located a block from Chicago’s Blue Line of the “El” train, and halfway between O’Hare Airport & The Loop (Downtown Chicago with its theatres, …

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Lobsters, leaves and lighthouses: Roadtrip through Maine 🇺🇸 (Part 2)

We had to drag ourselves away from this perfect place in Roque Bluffs. (see Part 1). The weather was glorious and we drove around our neighborhood enjoying the pristine scenery and exploring interesting lanes. We barely saw another human. But it was time to move on again to take advantage of all there was to …

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Lobsters, leaves and lighthouses: Roadtrip through Maine 🇺🇸 (Part 1)

Portland welcomed us with beautiful blue skies and a fresh sea breeze. We picked up our rental car and headed north on route 1. My heart quickened as we had the first glimpses of orange, red and golden leaves. Autumn was on it way! 🍁  Well researched by Geoff was our first  stop in Wiscasset …

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Putsonderwater, Northern Cape: Gone, but not forgotten

There’s a chilly katabatic wind blowing unchecked across the desolate Karoo escarpment when we stop at the settlement that was once the proud village of Putsonderwater. I’m a little in awe of finally being in Putsonderwater. The name is frequently used as a metaphor to indicate a faraway, remote never-land, like Timbuktu. I reflect on …

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Death in Japan ⛩

Graveyards can be sombre and contemplative spaces.  Coming across a 17th century burial site just above the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in Nikko, that was interring “The Graves of the Self-Immolation”, was especially intriguing. I’ll admit that I wasn’t exactly sure what ‘self-immolation’ meant and had to have Geoff explain to me that self-immolation is the act of …

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Requiem for Vespa

It’s been a long year since we last saw you. Those bright golden eyes, always alert, always serious, are emblazoned on our hearts. The last time we saw you, you sat on the kitchen window-sill in Wakkerstroom, surveying the perfectly sunny January morning with those intelligent eyes. Your shiny black coat was glistening in the …

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Norwegian Cemeteries: Not so easily “dust to dust”…

Driving through Norway, one passes through one picturesque village after another. At the heart of some of these towns you may even come across an historic wooden or stave church built in the Middle Ages and looking like something out of Grimm’s Fairytales. Each churchyard houses manicured grounds with well tended graves, swamped with flowers …

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Is there such a thing as too much holiday?

I used to dream of being able to travel indefinitely. Of moving from one awesome destination to the next, enjoying one mind-blowing experience after another. I thought that if you had time you could really maximise the cost of an overseas air ticket, instead of having to rush back to the office.

Death with a view

I have a fascination with graveyards. I am drawn to their peacefulness, their interminable silence, their other-worldliness. Death is a mystery to all of us, but a cemetery compels you to engage with the concept whether you want to or not.

What to pack for Milan in April

When I started packing for our trip to Italy and France, I googled the weather obsessively almost every day in the preceding week. It’s entirely impossible to imagine what the weather could be like a hemisphere away, when you are sleeping under a single sheet in a 30 degree Johannesburg, praying for rain.

Cheese curls and pyjamas 

I had a cheese-curls-and-pajama day yesterday. Let me explain. I recently left my C-suite job in a blue chip company. I took a long, careful look across the abyss and leapt. I believed all the people who said, yes, there is life beyond the corporate world. You will never look back.

Southern Vietnam: Saigon, Mekong Delta and Cu Chi tunnels

Ho Chi Minh city, or Saigon as it is known by the locals, is an exciting blend of traditional and modern. Soaring glass sky-scrapers (even one with a helipad) overshadow French colonial architecture, while women in traditional hats sweep water away from their makeshift storefronts with reed brushes. Scooters flow through the streets like flooding …

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Southern Namibia: epic, wild and unforgettable

Africa is a diverse and intriguing continent. Of all it’s countries, Namibia has to be one of the most beautiful and the most unique. From the spotless Bavarian-style town of Swakopmund to the majestic beauty and solitude of the Sossusvlei and onwards to the quaint windswept town of Lüderitz and the mysterious settlement of Kolmanskop, we …

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The Jewel of Bohemia – Český Krumlov, Czech Republic 🇨🇿

When I was little I had a beautiful fairytale storybook that was filled with colourful and textured pictures of castles with turrets, princesses in silky gowns – diaphanous veils cascading from their pointy cone hats and actual sprinkles of glitter highlighting fairies’ wings🧚‍♀️ and glistening stars.🌟 What made the book special was that the pages …

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Saving Taj

“My dog is walking around in circles trying to vomit. He seems to be in agony, even struggling to breathe. What should we do?” I spoke urgently to the vet over the phone even though it was after 10pm on a Saturday night.“Oh dear it sounds like torsion. Your dog is going to die,” responded …

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Liguria : Living it up on the Italian riviera 🌺

It’s hard not to feel slightly smug when you stroll along the promenade of the famous village of Portofino. Playground of movie stars, Presidents and the rudely rich, it’s easy to dream that you ‘belong’ for the day. Expensive yachts, charming dingys and pastel-coloured buildings are reflected in the pristine water. Stylish, tanned people sip …

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Koh Chang archipelago, Thailand🇹🇭

“Welcome to Trat!” proclaimed the sign at the airport. We admired the green topiaries that had been cleverly crafted into elephant shapes. After all, Thailand’s third largest island after Phuket and Koh Samui, Koh Chang is fondly known as ‘Elephant Island’ because of its mammoth size and elephant shaped headland. 🐘  Forming part of the Mu …

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Views on Venice

Andrew meets our train looking slightly flustered. “We’re in a hurry,” he tells us, taking my suitcase, “the vaporetto service will be suspended in the Grand  Canal and the Bacino di San Marco for most of the afternoon.” Expertly guiding us through the crowds, he ushers us onto one of the last departing vaporetta taxis. …

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Buenos Aires, Argentina 🇦🇷 : The Paris of South America

“What’s new, Buenos Aires?! I’m new! I wanna say I’m just a little stuck on you! You’ll be on me too! … And if ever I go too far It’s because of the things you are Beautiful town, I love you!”  Evita – Andrew Lloyd Webber/Tim Rice  Header photographer credit:Photo by Vincent Pelletier from Pexels …

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Saving Tiffany

It’s Christmas morning in Wakkerstroom and delightfully it’s a little cooler than normal. We’re excited to spend the day with our friends Janet and John, who also have a house in the village. We’ve booked lunch at the Country Inn where our friends, Danny and Paula, are the accomplished chefs and owners. We’re in for …

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