Heading away from the Catania Province, we were in Noto before we knew it and were lucky to find a super safe looking paid parking area surrounded by a hedge of pretty flowers. (We’d been warned that Sicily is notorious for break-ins on rental cars, and ALL our luggage was stashed in the boot.)
The entire town is easily walkable. The main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is a UNESCO-listed Sicilian Baroque masterpiece, featuring elaborate and monumental buildings crafted from rock. Not surprisingly, the city has been called “the garden in stone”.
We discovered that the reason that everything is in such pristine condition is that the catastrophic earthquake of 1693 obliterated the town, allowing it to be later replanned and rebuilt in the Baroque style that was fashionable at the time. It was staggering to realise that 2,000 years of history were flattened in a matter of minutes. The reconstruction job done on the town of Noto, is quite exemplary though and we could see why it is regarded as “the jewel in the crown of Sicilian Baroque.”
We visited the Noto Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Nicolò), a Roman Catholic cathedral dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra. It is the main church of the town and widely considered a masterpiece of Sicilian baroque architecture.
The sweeping steps in the foreground are part of the design drama—leading up to the cathedral like a stage set. This theatrical approach is regarded as a hallmark of Baroque urban planning.
Interestingly in 1996, a large part of the cathedral—including its dome—collapsed due to structural issues exacerbated by earlier earthquakes. It was painstakingly reconstructed and reopened in 2007, becoming a national symbol of restoration and cultural pride.
The uniform blocks of limestone glow a beautiful honey colour in the sunlight.
We were lucky to have good outdoor weather and it was a gloriously sunny day but soon the temperatures began to climb and we became very thirsty. It was quite a struggle to find anyone selling water. Gorgeous monuments and churches, yes; upmarket restaurants, yes; touristic souvenirs, yes, but not a cafe to be seen! We eventually wandered up some back streets until we found a tiny shop to assuage our dehydration.
We paused to admire the elegant Palazzo Ducezio — Noto’s Town Hall, across the road and also one of the defining buildings on the main square, giving civic authority in contrast to the cathedral’s spiritual authority. It was also built as part of the city’s reconstruction after the earthquake. Palazzo Ducezio is more balanced and refined with its lean symmetry and rhythmic columns along the ground floor.
Upstairs is the Hall of Mirrors (Sala degli Specchi), inspired by Versailles—gold detailing, mirrors, and frescoes. It’s often overlooked by visitors and unfortunately we are included in that group.
There were lots of tourists about, which is not too surprising as there is one magnificent building after another to admire. We wandered around gazing at the stone buildings, the sweeping steps, elaborate balconies and the powerful statues. We also enjoyed seeing the town explode with activity.
Another gem was the Church of San Francesco d’Assisi all’Immacolata, located just off the main Corso, near the cathedral. The wide, flowing steps leading up to the church are one of the most photographed features in Noto. The design is intentionally dramatic.
The church was originally part of a Franciscan monastery complex, which explains the larger buildings extending to the left and right.
The bell tower to the left rising behind the complex, the balconies with their ornate ironwork were particularly noteworthy.
It got warmer by the second and we cleverly paused to admire the interior of one of the churches – The Church of Santa Chiara, which is another stunning Baroque church designed by Rosario Gagliardi in the 18th century. The interior features a white baroque style with twelve statues of apostles on internal columns, which we admired after settling into one of the pews, luxuriating in the coolness and planning our next moves in hushed tones.
No end of amazing churches, we popped in to visit the Chiesa Di San Domenico, a magnificent church with a beautiful facade. The church stands on Piazza XVI Maggio, and its interior is modestly decorated with light walls covered with beautiful ornaments and nice and big altars in several places. The building is also a UNESCO Word Heritage Site.
I particularly liked the ornate scrollwork and statues crowning the façade and the distinctive contrast between the rigid vertical columns and the flowing curves. It also had an amazing garden.
All churched out, we found a shop selling the most delicious gelato with chocolate and almond flavours. Geoff declared this the best gelato ever!
We wandered down to explore the traditional weekly market known to be a vibrant event with high-quality local produce, including almonds, olives, citrus, and various cheeses, alongside, clothing, and household goods. The market was a bustling and colourful experience. We bought a beautiful tablecloth for Érica and Colin.
Early afternoon, we hopped back in our car for the onward trip to Syracuse and our accommodation on the island of Ortigia.
