I love the woodsy smell of cedar and fir trees. I love the way the pine trees form a warm, bright doorway back to the daylight from the cool shadows. I love the mossy shades of green and the dampness underfoot of the fallen foliage. I love admiring the autumn palette displayed in a patchwork …
We can’t remember whether we decided to go to Fukuoka because it is one of Japan’s largest cities and the furthest South West we’d go, or because every November, for a week, Fukuoka is thrust into the nation’s spotlight as visitors flock to the city that hosts one of Japan’s six Sumo Grand Tournaments. Either …
After cleverly sorting our luggage into:Suitcase A. Useful Stuff Suitcase B. No longer Useful Stuff (eg. summer clothes, hiking gear and souvenirs), and Carry-on bag C. Overnight Stuff for Miyajima Island, we arranged for our Hiroshima hotel to send A to our accommodation in Fukoako, and B to Kyoto, with the kitty cat transport people. Takuhaibin is a …
“It was an unusually quiet summer morning in 1945, with clear blue skies as far as the eye can see. Air raid alarms went off regularly back then. On August 6, however, there were no air raid alarms. Then, at 8:15am, the sky turned bright white. My siblings and I were knocked off our feet …
The road sweeps through the mountains, our bus driver confidently negotiating the switchbacks like a master. Lesser mortals, driving a sedan, would shrivel as the road seems far too narrow for two cars to get past each other, never mind a bus and a car, or at times 2 buses. Vibrant red maple and yellow …
“There are no dead in Okunoin, but only waiting spirits.” Spending a night on Mount Koya is filled with many beautiful must-see sights but none more so than Okunoin Cemetery, Japan’s largest graveyard. It was early afternoon when we set out, but we were immediately blessed with gorgeous dappled light, showcasing the Autumn leaves in …
After a quick change-over in Shin-Osaka, we took a panda-themed train to Wakayama. Across the platform, ready to depart was an African wildlife themed train. So pretty compared to the graffiti-scrawls, we are used to on our trains in South Africa. The city of Wakayama welcomed us with decorated stairs showing a hint of the …
Most people travel to Wakayama because it is the gateway to Mt Koya and the origins of Shingon Buddhism. Many come to taste the world famous tonkotsu broth with ramen noodles. Some come to see the beautiful Edo-period castle. We came to see a cat. 🐱 In Japan, cats are deeply ingrained in popular culture. …
We’re back. It didn’t take much discussion to decide that we would start off this trip with 3 days in Tokyo. This vibrant, over populated madness of a city made a big impression last time. We aren’t sure if we want to do completely new things or repeat some of our previous experiences. We decide …
Clichés exist because there is a grain of truth at the centre of the sentiment. When people say “Japan is a land of contradictions”, they’re not just being glib. They’re onto something. Japan is steeped in rich culture, tradition and ancient history, and is one of the brightest hubs of innovation and technology in the world. …
It is said that you can’t have a bad meal in Tokyo, but I don’t think you can have a bad meal in Japan. Everything looked and smelt amazing and it was all new to us. We always immerse ourselves into the local food wherever we are. Whether it is the traditional food from Thailand or Italy (our …
The ancient capital of Japan, Kyoto nestles in a valley in the South west of the country. Japan’s cultural centre, it was saved from total destruction during WWII and with 2000 temples and shrines, together with imperial palaces and other old buildings, it is one of the best preserved major cities in Japan. The …
Nicknamed Tenka no Daidokoro or “the nation’s kitchen”, this term originally referred to Osaka’s Edo Period status as Japan’s centre for rice trade. Nowadays, it refers to the city’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise. And yes, it lived up to its reputation and yes, eat we did! 🍜 Our first impressions of Osaka were really …
The local Chuo train pulled into Narai having stopped at every station dropping locals off with their shopping. Narai is a simple country station, obvious by its lack of electronic station boards and station master. We wandered up the main street, the beautiful restored wooden buildings seemed to lean in on you. It was very quiet. …
Graveyards can be sombre and contemplative spaces. Coming across a 17th century burial site just above the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in Nikko, that was interring “The Graves of the Self-Immolation”, was especially intriguing. I’ll admit that I wasn’t exactly sure what ‘self-immolation’ meant and had to have Geoff explain to me that self-immolation is the act of …
Two hours from a Tokyo by bullet train is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Nikko. Nikko is famous for its natural scenery of gorgeous mountains and rivers and also for its historical shrines and temples. After a rather warm Tokyo where we had been wearing t-shirts, it was notably chilly in Nikko. We were …
Nothing really prepares you for the impact of Tokyo. Despite all my pre-reading, Tokyo unleashed is overwhelming, but in such a good way. It’s a bit like being offered all your favourite foods at once. It’s hard to know where to begin. You just want to indulge in everything. Thursday afternoon We’d come for cherry blossom …
Possibly the only thing in Japan that isn’t completely punctual is the advent of cherry blossom flowering. The more I read about timing one’s trip to ensure that you experience cherry blossom season, the more emphatic the advice to just turn up and focus on enjoying Japan as a whole. Such is the transient window …
Les saveurs de la vie is a blog about lifestyle, travel, food, photography and other musings. We are Nikki and Geoff, married since 1995 and based in Johannesburg, South Africa 🇿🇦.