We tumble out of the taxi bright and early, eager to get going. The boat isn’t quite ready, so we enjoy full English breakfasts on the deck of the Boardwalk Bar & Grill, the rich red roofs of the Eden Island villas and rows of luxurious white yachts reflecting in the turquoise water around us. […]
Sailing the Seychelles Inner Islands🇸🇨 Read More »
We have planned a full, ambitious day out to Sintra – Pena Palace as it opens at 9:15 followed by a short walk through the gardens to the Moorish castle. Then lunching in Sintra town before tackling Monserrate Palace as it is less popular and the Regaleire Palace after 3pm once the crowds have left.
Sintra – Scenes from a Disney fairy Tale Read More »
We had planned a full day in Taormina, but things over these 4 days haven’t quite worked out as planned. It is our last day in Aci Castello and although we have spent the morning in Catania and are tired, we decide that we can’t not go, and an evening there is better than nothing
Taormina: Hilltop Jewel Read More »
I am not looking forward to Catania. By all accounts it is dangerous with very active pickpocket gangs. Some of the major car rental websites have prominent disclaimers stating that the insurance cover does not apply to Catania. Nikki really wants to go, so early in the morning we set off. The road that leads
Catania: The Black City Read More »
Mount Etna is high on our list of must-do’s in Sicily and as we make our way through the undulating landscape – it does not disappoint. The greens and yellows of trees and shrubs, some semi-buried from recent eruptions, contrast sharply with the dark ash. As our first visit to a volcano, we are woefully
Etna and the gift that falls from the sky Read More »
We arrived in Aci Castello, mid-afternoon, our base for the next 3 days to visit Etna, Catania and Taormina. We made our way down some very narrow streets to our accommodation. Google could not direct us the last 50 meters so we phoned the owner, who zipped up in a Vespa (of course). He directed
Aci Castello – Riviera of the Cyclops Read More »
Smoke billows across the verandah. Hazy figures take turns fanning the recalcitrant coals, entreating them to generate sufficient heat to finally cook the copious amount of meat. Neil, Robert, and Jeff shoulder the burden while the rest of us take refuge inside from the autumn nip. It is 8pm and copious amounts of chips, stories, laughter,
Escape to the past: Kaapschehoop🇿🇦 Read More »
Fortified by a delicious Japanese drip coffee from a kiosk outside Kii-Katsuura station we catch the 8:25 bus to Daimonzaka which leads to Nachi Taisha, the third and final Sanzan grand shrine that we will visit. Daimon-zaka Daimon-zaka is an impressive cobblestone staircase slope which runs from the base of the valley to Kumano Nachi
Kumano Kodo – Day 4: KiiKatsuura to Nachi Taisha Read More »
Our plan for today is to take the 8:31 bus to Michi-no-Eki and take a flat bottom wooden boat down the Kumano-gawa River just as pilgrims who travelled by boat between Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. We were looking forward to a different perspective of the Kumano Kodo trail. It had started raining
Kumano Kodo – Day 3 : Yunamine-Onsen to KiiKatsuura Read More »
Three legged crows caw harshly across the tree tops, intruding on our little doze. Chaise lounges, constructed from rough hewn logs are spread amongst the trees above the trail and Khan has suggested a 10 minute meditation. A welcome suggestion to rest and savour the beauty and peace of the Komano Trail. The sacred three-legged
Kumano Kodo – Day 2: Hosshimon-oji to Yunomine-oji Read More »
The road sweeps through the mountains, our bus driver confidently negotiating the switchbacks like a master. Lesser mortals, driving a sedan, would shrivel as the road seems far too narrow for two cars to get past each other, never mind a bus and a car, or at times 2 buses. Vibrant red maple and yellow
Kumano Kodo – Day 1: Kuyosan to Kuwayu Onsen Read More »
We’re back. It didn’t take much discussion to decide that we would start off this trip with 3 days in Tokyo. This vibrant, over populated madness of a city made a big impression last time. We aren’t sure if we want to do completely new things or repeat some of our previous experiences. We decide
Tokyo: A blow by blow account Read More »
Another crisp morning, another early departure, another packed breakfast. This one looks very promising – fresh orange juice, yoghurt and chocolate cake. It is dark as we leave and I am cautious; but there is neither man nor beast up at this hour. We pass through the beautiful gates in Rissani at first light and
A road trip through Morocco: Part 2 – Westwards Read More »
An ocean of silence. The hush penetrates and mutes the noise and confusion of our busy city lives. This is a place for quiet contemplation, patience and soaking up the stillness. A line of camels glides into view and then, as swiftly, is swallowed by the next dune. Quad bikes scurry like little bugs along the skyline – sounds and
Sahara: A sea of sand Read More »
Mountains, big mountains, even bigger mountains; sparse open plains extending to the horizon; lush green palmerai; ochre desert sands; crashing waves. We had spent so much time investigating the glorious cities of Morocco, we had given little thought to what we we would experience on the road. Tangier to Chefchaouen After the 3rd stall exhibiting 100’s of tagines and
A road trip through Morocco: Part 1 – Southbound Read More »
Stepping through the arched exit of Rabat Ville Station, we are immediately struck by the spaciousness. Bright green lawns surround a cascading fountain with a wide, palm lined avenue leading away between the art deco buildings on either side. It is pristine, calm and inviting, and we immediately feel a connection. We don’t have our bearings
Our regular evening passagiatta led us along the banks of the lagoon in Venice to the Rialto Bridge, were we sat relaxing on the pavement – people watching and listening to street musicians with tourists and locals alike. Hunger pangs eventually forced us into the side streets in search of the ideal place to eat. We knew
When life gives you lemons – make limoncello!🍋🍋🍋 Read More »
Sutherland and stars are synonymous. B&B’s named after planets, crisp, clear winter nights, observatories and telescopes, and people – warm and knowledgeable – eager to share their passion. We have always been intrigued by the Universe, but our visit to Sutherland awoke a new interest and we realised how little we actually knew…… The speed of
Sutherland – Gateway to the Stars Read More »
After a long days travel on our Northern Cape road trip we arrived at our corbelled house as the sun was setting. It was cold and we wanted comfort food. We had both fantasised about spaghetti carbonara but our bodies were saying vegetables. So apologies to all purists but with a nod to all peasant
Carbonara di Corbello Read More »
The sun slowly crests the low hill and the silent shadows retreat revealing the Karoo valley in all its ochre beauty, the golden light softening the rocky landscape. Steam rises in the crisp air from our condensed milk coffee as we sit on the stoep savouring the extraordinary quiet. We are staying at the corbelled
Corbelled House of Stuurmansfontein – A step back in time Read More »
It is said that you can’t have a bad meal in Tokyo, but I don’t think you can have a bad meal in Japan. Everything looked and smelt amazing and it was all new to us. We always immerse ourselves into the local food wherever we are. Whether it is the traditional food from Thailand or Italy (our
Food in Japan: Sensory overload Read More »
The ancient capital of Japan, Kyoto nestles in a valley in the South west of the country. Japan’s cultural centre, it was saved from total destruction during WWII and with 2000 temples and shrines, together with imperial palaces and other old buildings, it is one of the best preserved major cities in Japan. The
Kyoto – Cultural Centre of Japan Read More »
The local Chuo train pulled into Narai having stopped at every station dropping locals off with their shopping. Narai is a simple country station, obvious by its lack of electronic station boards and station master. We wandered up the main street, the beautiful restored wooden buildings seemed to lean in on you. It was very quiet.
Nakasendo Way – On the path of Shōguns Read More »
Why after 20 years of bareboat charters around the world do you need a sailing qualification, Nikki asked? A very good question with a convoluted answer. In many parts of the world, a sailing qualification is not required to charter – sailing ability and resumé are much more important. European countries are getting more sticky,
Yachtmaster™ Offshore – A circuitous passage⚓️ Read More »
Fjords. Waterfalls. Glaciers. These were some of the wonderful natural sights that we were looking forward to seeing as we set off from Ålesund airport for a week long road trip. There is something so exciting and independent about having your own car. Luggage in the boot, our mascot Shorne the Sheep, padkos for the
Road Trip through Western Norway Read More »
Sunday Öckerö. We woke up late and well refreshed after our mad rush the day before. We had another shower in the spotless facilities. Over a leisurely breakfast we chatted to our Swedish neighbours who were finishing a 3 week sailing holiday. They highly recommended Marstrand, which we had planned to avoid as it sounded too
Sailing in Gothenburg – Part 2: The Bohuslän Coast Read More »
I love the first day of picking up a new yacht charter. It’s like it’s own voyage of discovery – the idiosyncrasies of a new boat, local provisions, making sense of the charts and orienting ourselves to the new environment and it’s generally rushed as you are eager to leave harbour and start the new
Sailing in Gothenburg – Part 1: The adventure begins Read More »
We peer up the narrow overgrown yard leading to the ramshackle barn, wondering whether we had finally picked a dud. Fortunately, as we walk up a little further we see that a very narrow portion of the barn has been renovated. 3 stories: kitchen and sitting room downstairs, main bedroom on the 1st floor and
Aveyron and the Gorges du Tarn Read More »
Our footsteps echo through the deserted cobblestones streets of the village clinging to the rocky outcrop, the castle ruins looming overhead. A natural fortress, Les Baux de Province has provided protection to its inhabitants since the Iron Age. The views from the top are stunning, stretching across the Alpilles mountain range encompassing Ventoux and the
The Alpilles and Camargue Read More »
We sip our coffees in Piazza Umberto like locals (well they’re Americano’s – so not quite like locals), and nibble our brioche al cioccolato’s as we discuss our plans for the day. We want to do justice to the area, but not too much that we rush through, ticking boxes. After all, Bra, where the
Langhe: Northern Italy’s Pantry Read More »
The changing tide burbles along the hulls, birds chirp in the trees all around and the murmurs of an awakening fishing village – hidden in the dense jungle upstream – drift across the water. As the first longtail clatters its way out to sea, the river slowly comes to life. We are anchored a mile
Sailing in Langkawi, Malaysia Read More »
A gentle thump against the hull wakes us. We look through the port hole and see a motor boat puttering away. Curious, we go on deck and there, at the stern, is a freshly baked pidebread, delivered by Captain Nemo. Still hot to the touch, the smell is mouth watering. We cut thick wedges, slather in
Sailing in Marmaris, Turkey Read More »
I glimpse the moonlit road through gaping holes in the floorboard as we career through villages nestled in the tropical vegetation, dark shadows clustered around cooking fires, thumping music temporarily drowning the clatter. There is a bone jarring crash as the taxi hits yet another pothole. Conversation is impossible, so I am still in the
Sailing from Madagascar to Richards Bay, South Africa Read More »
A blind trust is a financial arrangement in which someone’s investments are managed without the person knowing where the money is invested. I had always thought a blind trust was when a blind person put their trust in a seeing person. What is it called when a blind person puts their trust in blind person?
Water smashed over the boat, drenching us as the bow dug into another wave. I needed one hand for the wheel and the other to protect my eyes from the rain, driven horizontally like pellets by the howling wind. Lightening flashes pierced the gloom, revealing the harbour entrance steadily getting closer but not as quickly
Sailing the Dalmation Coast, Croatia Read More »
The beautiful milky turquoise waters stretch around us. We are in awe of the unexpected beauty of the Plitvice Lakes, its pristine forests and waterfalls. One of the most beautiful places we have ever been, as yet unsullied by the hordes of tourists that would characterise this UNESCO World heritage site in later years. Plitvice
Croatia – Exquisite lakes, waterfalls and food🇭🇷 Read More »
The sails flap as we thread our way slowly between the sheer limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay, our wake the only disturbance in the pea-green expanse. The chatters of the swooping swallows echo against the imposing cliffs. We are in heaven. The limestone cliffs of Phang Nga Bay are calcium carbonate, which is generally white.
Sailing Phang Nga Bay, Phuket, Thailand Read More »
50 identical, brand new, French built Catamarans stretch out across the sand. Their sails resplendent in the colours of the United Arab Emirates; their crews eager for the Race Committee’s signal to launch into the azure waters of the Persian Gulf for the first race of the qualifiers for the 1996 Hobie 16 World Championships.
Racing in the Persian Gulf 🇦🇪 Read More »
Not sure why, as a non-hiker I decide to tackle the Fanie Botha Hiking Trail situated in the Sabie area of the Drakensberg escarpment. Perhaps it is the promise of breath-taking indigenous forests, pine plantations, waterfalls and panoramic views? Tuesday 6 April I leave Parkhurst about 7am with a full belly thanks to Lynn. The
Motorcycle Adventures: Where it all began – Eastern Transvaal Read More »
Les saveurs de la vie is a blog about lifestyle, travel, food, photography and other musings. We are Nikki and Geoff, married since 1995 and based in Johannesburg, South Africa 🇿🇦.