We had planned a full day in Taormina, but things over these 4 days haven’t quite worked out as planned. It is our last day in Aci Castello and although we have spent the morning in Catania and are tired, we decide that we can’t not go, and an evening there is better than nothing at all. So we brave our least favourite T-junction, this time in peak evening traffic, and take the highway to Taormina. The last section is a winding road that doubles back on itself countless time to ascend to the town perched up on high.
As with all of Sicily, Taormina has been successively run by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs and then the Normans. Its strategic location, perched on a mountaintop with a commanding view of the sea, making it a coveted prize. Taormina’s natural beauty and cultural heritage has long been a tranquil retreat for the wealthy. By the 19th Century it was on the “Grand Tour” of the European elite, including writers like Goethe, becoming a premier, luxurious resort town.
Porta Catania is the entrance to the old city and the start of Corso Umberto, the town’s vibrant main thoroughfare, buzzing with fashionable boutiques, Sicilian pastry shops, animated street stalls, medieval buildings, and churches. We take a gentle passagiata perfectly matching our energy levels.
A smoking Mount Etna, looms behind us as the sun sets.
Taormina has a number of luxury hotels like the Hotel Exelsior Palace and theSan Domenico Palace, a converted 14th century convent (above) -> sea views, pools, Michelin star dining and impeccable service. At EUR 1500 per night you expect nothing less. The San Domenico Palace is the hotel setting in White Lotus.
The Duomo di Taormina, or Cathedral of Taormina, captures the essence of the town’s Arab and Norman influences. Originally built as a mosque during Arab rule, it was later converted into a Catholic cathedral when the Normans took control.
The blending of architectural elements from different cultures paints a vivid picture of the town’s complex history.
Piazza IX Aprile. On April 9, 1860, during a mass in Taormina Cathedral, word spread that Garibaldi had landed in Marsala to begin the liberation of Sicily from the Bourbons. Although the news turned out to be false and the landing would not take place until the following month, the city wanted to pay tribute to the event.
The square also offers a breathtaking view of the sea and Mount Etna, making it an ideal spot to watch the sunset (if we had arrived earlier😀)
We wander into boutiques, admiring the quality goods on display.
We are in the process of uncluttering back home and are certainly not wanting to collect more things.
We are, though, always on the lookout for a choice item that will serve as a dramatic focal point.
Taormina is not short of restaurants, many on the high street, some down little alley ways. Somehow none appealed – ambience or menu selection or price. Prices are much higher in this town.
After ages of going back and forth, dragging long suffering Nikki in tow, I eventually choose the restaurant below. And then we have to go through the process of selecting something different from the menu, which is hard as most restaurants in Sicily serve the same standard items.
Imagine my horror when, after all that effort, these 2 dishes are brought out! A dry looking swordfish steak and a prawn dish whose appearance leaves much to be desired.
Looks can be completely deceiving – the swordfish is juicy and packed with flavour as is the prawn dish – one of the best meals to date in Sicily – go figure.
We didn’t get to see the Graeco Roman theatre with its panoramic backdrop; the pristine beaches and the enchanting islet of Isola Bella; or the Villa Comunale di Taormina – the lush public garden. It was dark, we didn’t have much time and certainly not much energy.
We did though have a wonderful evening in a romantic setting. Perhaps we have to leave some things for a return visit!
