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Escape to the past: Kaapschehoop🇿🇦

Smoke billows across the verandah. Hazy figures take turns fanning the recalcitrant coals, entreating them to generate sufficient heat to finally cook the copious amount of meat. Neil, Robert, and Jeff shoulder the burden while the rest of us take refuge inside from the autumn nip.

It is 8pm and copious amounts of chips, stories, laughter, and exotic gins go some way to assuage the hunger pangs.

Some of us, who shamefacedly have to admit that we cannot braai, have already finished supper at our accommodation, but have not escaped unscathed. Asked to carefully add exactly 5 grinds of “Chilli Explosion” as the finishing touch to a delicate prawn pasta, the top comes off the bottle and Nikki deposits at least half into Gerry’s  lovingly prepared dish. The resultant explosion leaves us with glassy eyed stares and numb lips for the rest of the evening.

It is the first night of our 2024 Photography Club weekend away in Kaapschehoop, an erstwhile and short-lived, gold mining town – now a neat, fiercely protected and well-maintained escape. We are amazed to see trenches being dug for fibre though. Gold was discovered here in 1874 but was soon abandoned when richer deposits were found in Pilgrim’s Rest, Barberton and ultimately the Witwatersrand. The “old Transvaal” architecture and proliferation of “sinkplaat ” houses adds to the charm of the village. Our 17 photographers and partners are spread around the village in some of the many accommodations available.

We arrive on Friday afternoon in time to catch the beautiful autumn colours.

Saturday’s early meet is at 5:45. The blue and golden hours wait for no one, and those that miss the meeting time are left to stumble and thread their way through the ghostly quartzite formations characteristic of the area, hoping they are going in the right direction. Reunited at what appears to be a dead end, some turn back to follow safer approaches, while others led by intrepid Sandy, strike off across and through wild terrain.

The bold arrive before the beautiful, but we are all in time for the magnificent sunrise emerging below the escarpment. The ground falls away vertically, merging with the lush De Kaap valley hundreds of metres below stretching out into the distance.

Some pose……..

…. while others take the shots

Our skills as photographers are tested, but cameras cannot capture the sheer magnificence of the scene or match the incredible HDR of our eyes.

The old Sappi fire lookout tower, sadly neglected and vandalised, provides ample photographic opportunities.

We amble back to the village, each stopping to take photographs of aspects that excite us. The birdlife is prolific and an African Stone Chat, a Southern Boubou, a double-collared Sunbird, an amethyst Sunbird and a Cape Rock Thrush pose endlessly for us.

After breakfast, we head for Batterey Creek Falls. Some are late to start (the same ones as this morning) and are directed by a local. As it turns out, the main group go to the top of the falls, which is a delightful stroll ending with paddling in the river at the edge of the falls. Us latecomers are mistakenly directed (albeit, happily) to the bottom, which is reached via a steep boulder-filled, treacherous path that crosses the slippery river four times. The group barely keeps up with Jill-the-mountain-goat, picking out our path. We meet a cool cat on the way.🐈

The bottom perspective is amazing, but keeping our lenses dry from the spray proves difficult.

Late afternoon, a few tenacious souls head to the pond on the outskirts of the village for some sunset pics. We have close encounters with the wild horses and the mosquitoes. The former, far more pleasant. The wild horses (which aren’t actually that wild) roam freely through the town. There is some debate as to whether they are the remnants from the British army or the mines or Sappi Forests. They certainly add colour to the town.

Our final morning is an immaculately maintained picnic spot just out of town requiring pre-arranged permits and keys.  Red, brown and ochre leaves carpet the ground though our shoes are soon sodden from the early morning dew.
We set up to photograph reflections and long exposures of the weir, stream and dam. 

There are only a few dilapidated buildings in this charming town. The old jail and the Mining Commissioner’s house are battle scarred by the continual grafitti artists but manage to capture the spirit of day’s gone by.

A delightful weekend spent doing what we love – taking interesting photographs and spending time with interesting people in a peaceful and magical town.

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