Our plan for today is to take the 8:31 bus to Michi-no-Eki and take a flat bottom wooden boat down the Kumano-gawa River just as pilgrims who travelled by boat between Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. We were looking forward to a different perspective of the Kumano Kodo trail.
It had started raining at 9pm the previous evening and continued throughout the night. The predictions are for 100% rain the entire day. We stick our heads out the window and it looks quite miserable.
I Google the boat company to see what their plans are for rain. Firstly, I see that there is a reservation system and it hadn’t occurred to me to book. Secondly, they say with light rains bring a rain jacket, for heavier rains the tour will be cancelled.
Our bus will arrive at the launching point at 9:08 and the next bus from there to Shingu is only at 3pm so if they do not have space or if the trips are cancelled, we will have to sit around for 6 hours. Also, if the weather improves and we can get on, we are likely to sit on a wet seats with wet bums for 2 hours. We decide not to take a chance. We repack our day packs into the big suitcase and prepare to take it with us to Shingu and Hayatama Taisha. It is the same bus that meanders along the Kumano River past the boat launching place to Shingu.
Downstairs we bump into a couple from England that we seen several times over the last 3 days. They are doing more or less the same as us. They booked thorough Kumano Travel so their luggage is all looked after. They concurred that dinner was the best meal that they have had in their 3 week trip.
The river looks amazing and I am disappointed that we aren’t experiencing it from a boat. Describe beauty, wet, green, river
Shingu is quite a big town. We store our bag in a coin locker and take a bus to Hayatama. The bus drivers are so helpful. If you don’t have the exact/change for the fare, they will exchange notes from their satchel for your large notes and then count out what’s needed Our bus driver, without being asked, points out which direction to walk to get to the shrine.
Our see-through umbrellas come in useful as the light drizzle continues unabated – looks like we made a good call about the boat trip.
Hayatama Taisha
Hayatama Taisha is the second of the 3 “Kumano Sanzan”shrines that we are visiting.
The shrine is located in the middle of the city, but the grounds are lush with greenery and are home to a 1,000-year-old sacred tree called the “Nagi tree,” and it was customary for Kumano pilgrims to take its leaves home to pray for safety along the way. Today, amulets in the shape of a nagi leaf are awarded and are popular among worshippers. It was offered in 1159 by Taira no Shigemori (1138 – 1179), a noble samurai.
The shrine was built at the mouth of the Kumano river, that flows into the Pacific Ocean, and celebrates both the power of nature and the place where the mythical couple at the origin of Japan supposedly arrived from the land of the kami.
The present days’ buildings were reconstructed in 1951 and look new and colorful, displaying a range of orange vermilion hues, dark green and white.
The two deities, Kumano Hayatama and Kumano Fusumi, are worshipped as the husband-and-wife deities and are believed to bring good luck in the areas of matchmaking and family safety.
Kamikura-jinja Shrine
Not only is the climb treacherous, but I might have to contend with some nasty looking snakes along the way.
Kamikura-jinja Shrine has an ancient traditional ritual (1400 years) connected with Kumano yamabushi (mountain priests). The ritual involves men clad in white robes cinched with straw ropes carrying torches lit from a sacred fire down the steep stone steps at the top of Mt. Kamikura. This is a ritual that originated as a baptism by fire. Licks of flames bursting from the torches shimmer in the darkness. Approximately 2,000 torchbearers receive the sacred flame with pentagonal torches, and pray for the well-being of families throughout the year and the granting of other wishes. The unusual ritual involves the steep descent of 538 stone steps. The stream of men bearing torches is reminiscent of a descending dragon. Women are not allowed to participate. The Oto Matsuri festival is held 0n 6 February every year.
The steep climb, punctuated with many breather stops is rewarded with a spectacular view over Shingu
Kamikura-jinja Shrine, contains the Gotobiki-iwa Rock to which legend says that the gods of Kumano descended.
Going down is even harder!
Having climbed laborious to the top and gingerly placing my feet coming down, I cannot fathom how 2000 men hurtle down the mountain on these uneven steps, in the dark, flames casting treacherous shadows, jostling.
Someone tripping would send them crashing into the backs of others causing a human landslide. Why there are not serious broken bones or even deaths is a miracle.
We catch an ever punctual bus back to Shingu station, collect our baggage and catch the coastal train (dressed as a panda) to KiiKatsuura.
KiiKatsuura
We arrive at Kiikatsuura at 2pm. It is a 2 minute walk to our AirBnB. Jazz owns the hairdresser and the AirBnB and as it is still drizzling he allows us to check in early. There are 3 toilets and a shared bathroom. As we had been told to bring our own towels – we brought tiny gym towels to save space. Although it doesn’t sound salibrious, it is comfortable and very close to the fishing port, restaurants and station…. and it is so lovely to sleep in real beds again.
This fellow fed more to the cats then he put into his basket to take home.
KiiKatsuura or Nachikatsuura is a fishing port and the Katsuura region is famous for its abundant fresh fish. In fact their Tuna Market boasts the highest catch of tuna in the whole of Japan. The town is quaint and charming but a little dated.
We had dinner at Bodai situated right opposite the train station. Lovely, slightly upmarket ambience, we chose their signature dish – the “Medium-fat raw tuna cutlet” (nama-maguro no chu-toro katsu). The tuna cutlet is skillfully fried, providing a crispy texture and an explosion of umami with every mouthful.
👈 The most amazing Caesar salad ever!
Early to bed, ready for an early morning rise tomorrow
