Three legged crows caw harshly across the tree tops, intruding on our little doze. Chaise lounges, constructed from rough hewn logs are spread amongst the trees above the trail and Khan has suggested a 10 minute meditation. A welcome suggestion to rest and savour the beauty and peace of the Komano Trail.
The sacred three-legged crows, Yatagarasu are said to be messengers of the gods, and due to their intelligence and keen eyesight, are also revered as guides.
The three-legged crow is now the emblem of Kumano shrines across Japan, representing rebirth and rejuvenation. Its three legs represent heaven, earth, and mankind.
A “Dual Pilgrim” is someone who has walked both the Kumano Kodo and the Way of St.James (Camino de Santiago).
The Dual Pilgrim logo is a combination of a shell and a three-legged crow. The colors are shades of orange, often seen in beautiful sunrises and sunsets.
Today we are walking the 7km from Hosshinmon Oji to the first of the Kumano Sanzan Shrines – Hongu Taisha and then 2km to our accommodation in Yunomine Onsen. (The pink highlight in the map below).
The bus from Kuwaye Onsen swept us along the narrow road that winds through the mountains detouring through little villages. The majority of those that get on the bus have hiking gear and pretty much everyone gets off at Hosshinmon Oji.
Hosshinmon Oji Hike
Oji are subsidiary shrines of the Kumano Grand Shrines that line the Kumano Kodo to protect and guide pilgrims. These shrines house the “child deities” of Kumano and serve as places of both worship and rest. The formation of these shrines has been attributed to the Yamabushi mountain ascetics, who historically served as pilgrimage guides.
Hosshinmon-oji is one of the most important sites on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route marking the outermost entrance into the divine precincts of the grand shrine, Kumano Hongu Taisha. Historically, there were many gates along the Kumano Kodo that were physical markers of religious ritual stages, and Hosshinmon-oji is one of these important spiritual landmarks.
“Hosshin” means “spiritual awakening” or “aspiration to enlightenment” and “mon” means “gate”. Passage through this gate was a transformational rite marking initiatory death and rebirth in the Pure Land paradise.
I only have a small map on my iPad, but I need not have worried, the trail is very well marked including signs showing “Not Kumano Kodo”. Every 500m a marker counts downup to Hongu Taisha. It is impossible to get lost.
The trail is delightful, meandering through the forest, sometimes tar, sometimes cobblestones, mostly dirt track interlaced with tree roots requiring a sharp eye. We wind through isolated mountain villages with crops of oranges and vegetables. Dotted along the way are little kiosks with fruit and a honesty box.
Our first check point is the Mizunomi Oji, about 1.5 km away from the start. This shrine is known as the shrine with a water source. There are small stone Jizo statues, clad in red cloth, to the left of the fountain. Jizo is a Bodhisattva, or a being that compassionately refrains from entering nirvana in order to save others, and is one of the most popular deities in Japan.
Beautiful autumn leaves at its peak on a tree as we took a trail that enters the forest at Mizunomi-oji.
From here the trail descended through the forest past to Sangen-jaya, an old tea house.
was more of the similar walks through forested area, mostly descending. Birds could be heard through the forest
Can you spot the Grand Shrine (Hongu Taisha Shrine) in the photo? It is the small white patch in the middle. Seems very far away and that is our destination.
Shortly after passing through the settlement, we arrived at the Fushiogami-oji. Fushiogami-oji is where pilgrims fell to their knees and prayed after catching their first glimpse of the Grand Shrine in the distant valley below.
Imagine their joy and relief to see their destination (in the distance) after toiling days and nights through the pilgrimage route across the Kii mountains.
A tiger protecting crops
Beware of fire
We joined up with Khan from Vietnam (currently working on Singapore). She is super organised with maps and GPS.
Here she is getting her book stamped at one of the stages.
Somewhere near signpost 73, we took a detour to a lookout point that was not to be missed. We first get a view of the Kumano-kawa river and then shortly after, a view of a giant Torii gate at Oyuohara.
From the lookout point, we continued descending the trail and soon arrived at the rear entrance to the Kumano Hongu Taisha grand shrine.
Like many pilgrims in the thousand years before us, we had finally arrived at the destination and end of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route after days of travel through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula.
Kumano Hongu Taisha was originally located at Oyunohara, a sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers. Legend has it that the Kumano deities, in the form of three moons, descended into the branches of a giant oak tree in this clearing. All of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes lead to this sacred site.
In 1889 a severe flood destroyed many of the shrine buildings. The salvaged remains of the pavilions were rebuilt at their present site. You can still see the expansive, raised earthen platform where the pavilions once stood. Of the original five main pavilions only three were rebuilt. Four deities were moved there and the other eight are still enshrined here in two stone monuments.
The bronze ornaments on the rooftop are characteristic features of shrine architecture. They are now symbolic of the sacred nature of the structure but originally they derived from functional construction techniques and markers of status. They add a dramatic highlight to the roofline.
A welcome lunch at Restaurant Kitchen きっちん – simple and delicious.
In true Japanese style, we avoided the American coffee😀
The entrance to Oyunohara is marked by the largest Torii shrine gate in the world (33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide). It’s a formalized gateway that designates the entrance to a sacred area. It signifies the division of the secular and the spiritual worlds. This Torii is called Otorii, O means “big”. It was erected in the year 2000 and is made of steel. The Otorii weighs 172 tons and took about 6 months to make and 6 months to assemble. It is lit up during special occasions and festivals, such as during the Kumano Hongu Taisha Spring Festival, the Yata-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival, and during the New Year holiday.
Dainichi - Goe Hike
The guide book says: The Dainichi-goe route is a short but relatively steep trail over Mt. Dainichi that links the Hongu village with Yunomine Onsen.
Energy-wise, ending the day in Hongu felt right, particularly after all the relaxing and sightseeing. However, our accommodation in the next town of Yunomine Onsen means we have one final push via the Dainichi-goe path. The bus is a possibility, as is walking along the road, but we are determined to complete the trail. It is a 250m uphill push, followed by an equally steep descent -a short 2km stint.
Oh No! This is only marker No. 2
However, the theory of a 250m climb is very different to the reality. The path winds along the contours. We keep thinking this is the summit, to be faced with yet another climb. The light is beginning to fade and we wonder whether we will make it in time. Eventually we make it to the top.
The last stretch is a little easier and we stagger into Yunomine Onsen. A rough way to end the day when already fatigued, and one of the toughest things we have ever done. though the promise of a hot bath made it easier.
Tsuboyu Onsen is reputably the oldest Onsen in Japan and private bathing can be booked for 30 min slots. This bath was used by pilgrims in the past to purify themselves with the hot water and is the only hot spring that you can bathe in that is registered as UNESCO World Heritage.
Downstream from the creek, there is an area with hot spring water to cook eggs that can be purchased from a convenience store across the road. We went to check this out and saw a few families enjoying the experience of cooking their Onsen Tamago (onsen eggs) and eating them by the creek.
Ryoken Adamaya is an old two story wooden structure and looks very different on the outside to Fujiya in Kuwayu Onsen. It is the oldest wooden building in Yunomine Onsen and was founded by a shrine priest and run as a “Ryokan” Japanese Inn for generations since the Edo era.
Our names are written on labels at the entrance and the welcome is superb.
All of the rooms are classic Japanese style with names such as “sakura” (cherry), “take” (bamboo) and “sugi” (cedar).
The owners showed us the facilities in the ryokan and assigned and helped us to our room on the second floor, with views of the road and centre of the village. A flask of hot water, green tea and snacks were provided. This is typical of Japanese inns that we had stayed in. The room tatami, with a little balcony and a French coffee table and two chairs.
The booking experience was interesting. I had emailed them directly asking whether they had availability (after Booking.com had said no availability). They wrote back saying yes with rates. I selected a room and they confirmed. No credit card details, no deposit, no further communication nearer the time confirming whether I still wanted the room. They worked on the basis that I booked and would arrive or show them the courtesy of letting them know if I couldn’t make it.
Dinner and breakfast are both to be served in our room. We chose 6pm for dinner so as to maximise our soaking in the Onsen to relieve our aching muscles. Nikki had a piping hot indoor Onsen, whereas mine was outdoors with a lovely atmosphere, but was luke warm. Still, I had to drag myself out after wallowing for an hour.
Dressed for dinner in our yukatas (and coat for me).
A lovely elderly gentleman arrived and started the ritual of laying our table, dish after dish meticulously laid out. He then asked us to sit and then, wonder of wonders he showed us a menu of what we were would be eating. He also explained what were the appetisers, the starters and the next courses – something we had never known.
Just as we were coming to terms with the breadth and depth of our dinner, he went on to say he would be back a little later with our main courses
. Nice to know so that we can pace ouselves.
Sitting crossed legged on cushions with a back-rest (thankfully) laid on tatami floor. After a long day of walking I would have preferred a normal table though.
We asked for double futons which our “personal butler” went to organise.
This, we agreed, was the best meal we have ever had in Japan.
He arranged to clear our bedding at 7:10 so that he would have time to set up our breakfast and we would be able to catch our early bus.
Once again, with great flourish he lays out a plethora of yummyness. Another memorable experience every dish delicious. We even had a poached egg – cold though. The Ryokens always provide copious amounts of rice which great for soaking up the various broths; and of course the ubiquitous miso soup.
