The road sweeps through the mountains, our bus driver confidently negotiating the switchbacks like a master. Lesser mortals, driving a sedan, would shrivel as the road seems far too narrow for two cars to get past each other, never mind a bus and a car, or at times 2 buses. Vibrant red maple and yellow ginka trees punctuate the lush green rolling hills as we try to soak in the beauty as there is no stopping for photos.
We have chosen the Nakahechi trail starting at Hosshimon-oji and our Komono Kodo trail has begun with a 4 hour bus ride from Koyasan to Kuwayu Onsen via the Koya-Ryujin Skyline (Route 371).
Kumano Kodo
The Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) is a network of pilgrimage trails through the Kii Peninsula of the southern Kansai region. The Kodo (“old ways”) have been in use for over 1000 years. They are the only pilgrimage routes besides the Camino de Santiago to be designated a World Heritage site.
Its routes have been walked by all levels of society, from commoners and artisans to aristocrats and retired emperors. The trails that comprise the region sprawl over mountain ranges and weave through lush valley greenery, each dotted with quiet hamlets and bustling hot-spring towns famous for their rejuvenating waters.
The pilgrimage routes developed as a way for people to move between the sacred areas on the Kii Peninsula. At the center of this religious area are the three Kumano shrines: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha, collectively known as Kumano Sanzan.
Ohechi follows the coast from Tanabe to Nachi Taisha. This trail has virtually disappeared due to development and the construction of modern roads. At the height of its use between the 10th and 15th centuries, Ohechi, along with Nakahechi and Kohechi, is estimated to have seen the passage of over 30,000 people each year.
Iseji connects Kumano with Ise Shrine in Mie Prefecture. Like Ohechi, much of Iseji’s coastal trail has been covered by paved roads and towns. Only short, isolated sections remain as stoned or earthen trails today.
Kohechi connects Kumano with Koyasan. This mountaintop route is long and challenging, and consequently should not be undertaken without careful preparation. Inns are rarely found without zigzagging up and down the mountainsides into valley towns, greatly increasing the distance traveled. Kohechi was used mainly by Buddhist monks from the temple complex of Mount Koya.
Omine Okugake connects Kumano with Yoshino via Mount Omine. Like Kohechi, Omine Okugake is a long, difficult and dangerous route that follows high mountain ridges and barely passes any towns for much of its duration. This route was used primarily by followers of the Shugendo mountain worship sect.
Nakahechi connects Tanabe and Hongu. It is well preserved and relatively easy to walk, leading through hilly, forested landscapes and occasional villages. Of the trails that make up the Kumano Kodō, the Nakahechi trail was once considered the imperial route. The sheer number of pilgrims who would march in long processions earned the trail the nickname ‘pilgrimage of ants’, and the trail remains the most popular of the routes today.
The banner reads “Fire prevention campaign in progress” . The little kids, escorted by a fire engine, solemnly beat their drums as the traffic is halted to allow them to pass.
“Pad kos”
We take a welcome break at the michi-no-eki (road station) at Gomadanzan which is on the Kohechi trail to transfer between the Ryujin and Nankai Rinkan Bus companies. Standing at 1372-metres it is the highest point accessible by vehicle in the region. The views of the mountains are breathtakingly endless and beautiful. It does highlight how tough the Kohechi trail is though and we are pleased to spend 4 hours in a bus rather than the 4 full days required to walk it.
The bus route from Koyasan to Ryujin Onsen and the Kohechi Trail itself are closed from December to March as much of it becomes impassable.
We stop for lunch at Kirari Ryujin. For a change we are not seduced by the delicious food on offer and enjoy an ice cream. Cute little cars line the car park. They are the perfect size for a road trip on narrow roads – the plan for our next visit.
The journey continues and we are dropped right outside our Ryokan at Kawayu Onsen.
Kawayu Onsen
Kawayu Onsen is a geological thermal wonder located on the Oto River, a tributary of the Kumano-gawa River. “Kawa” means “river” and “yu” means “hot water”. In Kawayu Onsen hot spring water bubbles to the surface of the crystal clear river.
The best place to bath in the river, where the spring water is hottest, or most active is just in front of Fujiya Ryokan. They provide us with everything we need to enjoy a river bath – flip flops, towels, and a carrier bag for our clothes and yukatas. They even provide a shovel to dig our own onsen.
When you dig a hole in the gravel river bed, hot thermal water percolates in, creating an onsen bath! You can then regulate the temperature by diverting cold water from the river into the mix.
I make an attempt but eventually gave up digging our own and just expand a pool that had been dug by others before us.
Nikki braves the icy waters of the deep part of the river before relaxing in the warm “onsen”. The mineral content of onsen water gives it healing properties. It contains silica, which smooths and softens skin, and sulfur, which helps with skin problems such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. The sulfur can also help cuts and wounds heal faster. We certainly found that our skin felt smoother, and more supple over 3 weeks.
Squeezed in between lush green mountain slopes and a huddle of hostels and inns, river relaxation is the order of the day…
From December to February, a giant bath Sennin-buro (仙人風呂) is created in the river. “Sennin” means “one thousand people”, implying that it is so large that one thousand people can bathe at the same time. “Sennin” also means “mountain man”, or “immortal mountain hermit”, a mysterious character that lives far in the mountains. “Buro” means bath.
Fujiya Ryokan
I was concerned about our accommodation in Kuwayu as although the rooms looked good on the website, the Ryokan from the outside looks like a large concrete block of flats. As ryokans by definition are traditional Japanese inns, this didn’t quite seem to match the brief. I needn’t have worried. Our reception is pure Japanese efficiency and warmth, the rooms are classic tatami mat and very spacious. Every room has a view of the Oto River which flows through the village
We have separate Onsens inside the Ryokan before dinner. The marble Onsen and the wooden Onsen are allocated alternately male and female and change at midnight. We have them totally to ourselves and it is delightful to soak away the days travel.
We are treated to an extraordinary kaiseki meal which is served in the communal dining hall. Once again we have no idea what we are eating. There is a delightful tipple which we later learn is plum wine – soon to become one of favourites. Futons are laid out in our room by the time we get back. We double up with the spares and fall into deep sleep.
After a equally lavish and delicious breakfast we check out ready for our first day of walking.
The ryokan offers free shuttles to the Komano Kodo trail leaving at 9:00 every morning. We want an early start however, so opt to take the 8:00 public bus which conveniently stops right outside and will drop us off at Hosshinmon Oji where we wish to start the trail. Our luggage has been forwarded to the next accommodation.
