Not sure why, as a non-hiker I decide to tackle the Fanie Botha Hiking Trail situated in the Sabie area of the Drakensberg escarpment. Perhaps it is the promise of breath-taking indigenous forests, pine plantations, waterfalls and panoramic views?
Tuesday 6 April
I leave Parkhurst about 7am with a full belly thanks to Lynn. The N4 is difficult to find but once on it, I ride at the top speed of the Suzuki (about 100km/h). The back pack is cutting cruelly into my shoulders – a combination of its weight and the force of the wind catching the top.
I am forced to leave the N4 at Argent for petrol – consumption seems very high (about 100km in a tank). A desperate half hour later I manage to find a pump. Running low again just before Ogies I decide to fill up at every opportunity. I reach Middelburg, Transvaal at about 11:15 and have a rest under a large tree. Both body and bike are hot and weary. [I did my Basic Training at 4th South African Infantry Battalian here in Middelburg}. I take another break at the Berg-en-Dal monument, and then fill up in Machadadorp.
Berg-en-dal where the last pitched battle of the Boer War was fought in 1900. Kitchener declared that the Boer republics were overcome and the war was over. The boers waged guerrilla warfare for 2 years after, before finally being overcome.
The Suzuki TS185 is a lightweight, two-stroke dual-sport motorcycle produced from the 1970’s through the 2000’s, featuring a 183cc air-cooled single-cylinder engine and a 5-speed transmission.
Renowned for its excellent torque and trail-riding. capability, it produces approximately 18 hp and typically achieves a top speed of 95-105km/h; weighing of 102 kg with a 7.0 L fuel capacity.
I take the turnoff to Waterval Boven to do some sight seeing as this area is full of history. I take a walk through the NASZM tunnel to the Elands River Falls.
The Nederlandsche Zuid-Afrikaansche Spoorweg-Maatschappij (NZASM) built the Waterval Boven tunnel as part of the Eastern or Delagoa Railway which was of great strategic importance to the Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR) giving the young country access to a non-British seaport (essential to preserve political and economic independence in the face of British imperialism). After extensive planning, work on the tunnel commenced in October 1892. Two teams blasted and drilled their way through the rock and joined up in September 1893. Railway tracks were laid and the tunnel walls were lined with stone masonry for strength. This outstanding piece of engineering was completed in 1894 and a year later the Eastern Railway opened to much celebration throughout the ZAR.
Soldiers and a blockhouse on top? Newly completed
Waterval Boven Train disaster – 16 Nov 1949
I take the road through Schoemanskloof as it looks more scenic then the N4. I ignore the turn off to Sudwala Caves assuming it will be too expensive. I have some regret about passing so many places of interest with barely a glance, but the purpose of the trip is merely to get to Sabie and the Fanie Botha Trail.
I pass through miles of pine plantations on either side of the road. About 2km before Sabie, I turn onto a private forest road for 1km and then ride deep in between the trees themselves so that I am completely shielded from the road and make camp. (17:15)
Totally exhausted and very sore, I heat up a packet of Vegemix (dehydrated food – no idea what they are made of or their nutritional value) which requires a litre of boiling water. I only have about 300ml so the meal isn’t very pleasant. Vegemix isn’t very pleasant at the best of times😀 but it serves its purpose – cheap, hot and filling.
The stillness and the fresh pine scent from the conifer resin are heavenly and the pine needles covering the forest, once cleared of cones, provide a soft mattress.
I experience, for the first time, how unpleasant a night on tour can be – I drop into an exhausted sleep and wake at 10pm completely refreshed. The remainder of the night stretches interminably forth; the increasingly uncomfortable berth and unremitting whine of mosquitos makes further sleep impossible. I have no light to read, and even if I had, I would prefer not to attract unwanted attention.
Wednesday 7 April
After a night of tossing and turning, I ride into Sabie and after much cajoling, I manage to persuade the police to allow me to leave my bike outside the station.
[My mom’s cousin lived in Sabie (family Krumm) and as kids we used to go there for holidays. My memories are vague but I recall a green garden, moist wet soil, a stream, rock pools and hours of unfettered exploration]
Sabie is a tranquil and attractive malaria-free town situated in Eastern Transvaal and lies in the centre of one of the largest man-made forests in the world.
The town is named after the Sabie River which is well known for its fearful crocodiles as well as harsh currents. Sabie originated as another gold rush town, all due to an accidental discovery during a picnic in 1895. A bottle shooting practise revealed gold specks in the rock where the bullets had glanced off. And so the gold rush began
Shouldering my back pack I set off for Bridal Veil Falls and the Fanie Botha Trail. Hiking aggravated the red hot poker pains in my shoulders – a pain soon to become quite routine on tours. Arriving at Bridal Veil’s , I am thoroughly shattered, disillusioned and sopping wet with sweat… and the 2 day trail still lies ahead! The gloriously cool spray at the foot of the falls helps to revive my spirits.
After a long rest and careful deliberation I realise that I really am not having any fun and the thought of continuing the hike fills me with despair. I hitch a ride back to Sabie to pick up the bike and decide to go on a biking tour.
Aptly named Bridal Veil Falls
The policeman is rather surprised to see me back so soon. I head north on the Graskop road and stop off at Mac-Mac pools for lunch and attend to the results of the morning’s exertions – blisters. Stop again at Mac Mac Falls and then push on. No opportunities for off-the-road camping present themselves. In Graskop I am refused accommodation in the municipal camping grounds… because I ride a motorbike!? Cursing the types that give motorcyclist a bad name, I push on north developing a sense of urgency. I make lightening stops at God’s Window, and other beautiful scenic views in Blyde River Canyon – Berlin Falls, Lisbon Falls – taking “I was there” photos. This area has an extraordinary number of waterfalls and these are just a few.
Mac Mac Pools
I pass Bourke’s Luck Potholes, still not finding a safe place to camp. I try Blyderivierspoort Nature Reserve but they are full. Swooping west, at the Ohrigstad T-junction I spend some time speaking to a National Serviceman who is hitching home. By then it is dark and I make a call to splurge and stay overnight at the nearby Echo Caves Motel. Rather surprised at being allowed to stay. The comfort and sense of well being after a shower and another meal of Vegimix (with more water this time) nullify the effect of the sorely depleted reserve fund.
Thursday 8 April
I awake fully rested and evaluate the sad state of my finances. I only have R10 left with which to get home whereas it cost R20 in petrol to come up. I start crawling home, coasting down hills, sometimes switching off, doing maximum 60km/h on the straights and uphills. Consumption is amazing, although I still half expect to phone Peter to telegraph funds. I turn off the Ohrigstad road for Burgersfort. Then through Steelpoort, Stoffberg, Middelburg and Witbank. At this speed, the road from Johannesburg stretches on forever. I limp into Bedfordview and put my last 94c into the tank to get home. (18;15)
It’s been tough physically and it is a bit lonely, but this is outweighed by: the experience of magnificent parts of the country; the immersion and visualisation of the events at historical sites; the freedom of having a broad plan and adapting to events; and the challenge to see how much can be done even with limited funds.
I want to see more and immediately start planning the next trip.
From: Tuesday 6 April 1982 To: Thursday 8 April 1982. Duration: 3 days
Distance: 400km. Avg: 133km/day
Bike: Suzuki TS185
