It was my very first history lesson and I was spellbound as Sister Leilia told the story of a Portuguese navigator, Bartolomeu Dias, who led an expedition seeking a sea route to facilitate the lucrative spice trade with India, by by-passing the traditional land routes and Middle East middlemen. It was 1488. Dias captained a small sailing ship known as a caravel. His fleet had 3 ships.The seas around the southern tip of Africa were so treacherous that he named it the Cape of Storms. Dias became the first European to document the South African coastline and the southernmost point of the continent of Africa.
My Standard 1 class located Portugal on the globe and noted how well placed it was to voyage around the bulge of Africa, navigating unknown territories, facing harsh weather conditions, and encountering potentially hostile environments. What an adventure! I was fascinated by this little country that led the way in maritime exploration and established a vast overseas empire.
TUESDAY
We arrived at 10 am from London, Heathrow.
Although Facebook had warned us that the immigration authorities were introducing a new computer system and that processes had been significantly slow resulting in 2 – 3 hour queues, nothing prepared us for facing an interminably snaking queue of hundreds of people.
We amused ourselves by people watching, procuring water, taking turns to nip to loo, observing a patient poodle being trundled along in his carry bag. An American woman had picked on the unsuspecting British couple beside her. “Do you know what the 5 most important secrets to a happy marriage are?” She demanded. The couple looked lost for words, but were saved from responding because she powered on…”I’ll tell you. First, it’s spirituality. I’m a very spiritual person. That’s why, I’m still with him.” She thumbed over her shoulder at the man who seemed to be deliberately ignoring her, focusing on his kindle. Just then, the queue snaked away, so sadly for us we never learnt the 4 other secrets of a happy marriage.
When we finally hit the immigration counter almost 4 hours later, the bored official said “Would you like a tip? Next time fly through Porto.”
The baggage claim area was a sea of suitcases, but some logic prevailed on further investigation. If you asked for your airline, you were directed to an area that housed the luggage from your flight. We were relieved to find our bag.
Then we were ready to head off. First stop was procuring a Sim with unlimited data for €35. Not too bad. Next step was to acquire an Uber and in minutes we swept off (in our first Tesla) to be dropped at the top of our street less than 30 minutes later.
“As it was 15h30 and check in was only at 4, we stumbled into a hot dog place virtually across the road, called Hot God (“Dog bless you”) 😆
Very hungry, we devoured delicious saucy gourmet dogs on light brioche rolls, washed down with refreshing sangria and apple cider. We had a chat to the friendly Ethiopian waiter about life in general as we passed the time.
Then a very quick stroll one block down the hill to no 34 rue da Bica described as one of the most “emblematic” streets due to the presence of the famous elevador yellow tram (which our new friend had informed us was under repair until end May). Despite this, tourists gathered everywhere, cameras at the ready, Instagram outfits primped for the iconic shot.
Our apartment is small, modern and spotless with everything we need including a washing machine!
We were shattered from standing around for so long and from the flights so we indulged in a little snooze. We awoke around 7pm! Luckily it was still light and we set off for a wander around our neighborhood. A touch chilly but so pleasant. Ideal walking weather.
We headed down to the waterfront area. Lots of activity with people enjoying the sunshine and the onset of Spring. The river Tagus is so wide here that it feels like the ocean. We wandered around enjoying the lovely light and holiday energy of people out for what can only be described as a passagiata.
Our plan was to perhaps have a meal at Time Out market. A gorgeous building with a set up that reminded us of the Norwegian food halls. You can order from any station and then sit in a central area. Very busy and quite touristy.
Time Out Market is aimed foodies. It’s supposedly the first market in the world that brings together a multitude of 5 star restaurants of diverse world cuisines, exquisite bars, and staple produce vendors, each chosen by an independent panel of culinary experts.
“Also known as the Mercado da Ribeira, the Time Out Market is an idea curated from scratch in 2014 by the editorial team of the TimeOut Magazine. Stall holders of this market rotate on a weekly to a maximum of 3-year basis in-which only the absolute best vendors last. The venue goes far beyond food, however, and a range of events and concerts are held in the TimeOut Market. If it doesn’t get four or five stars in Time Out, it’s out.”
I had a yummy Prawn bean stew with coriander rice. Geoff had the Iberian pork sweet potato purée and crispy cabbage. Local beer Super Bock was rather pleasant.
The city was in full swing at 21h30. We passed Lupita’s where we hoped to go for pizza sometime and it was running a lengthy queue. Wine bars and street tables everywhere overflowing with people. We headed up the steep hill to our abode.
A quick shower and we fell into bed completely exhausted.
WEDNESDAY
Slept sooo well. Got up early and strolled around our neighborhood to the nearby Baixa-Chiado station to get our public transport passes and then wandered through the quiet streets admiring the shops and taking pictures of the enticing trams trundling through the narrow streets, unfazed by the curves and steep rises.
“The first tramway in Lisbon entered service on 17 November 1873 as a horsecar line. The vehicles, called ‘americanos’ after their point of origin, were initially deployed in the flat parts of the city where animals were capable of hauling their passenger loads. On 31 August 1901, Lisbon’s first electric tramway commenced operations. Until 1959, the network of lines continued to be developed, and in that year it reached its greatest extent, comprising 27 lines. The subsequent slow decline of the network began with the expansion of the bus system and the construction of the Metro.”
We walked towards Praça do Comércio or Commerce Square which is the main public square in Lisbon. Situated by the Tagus river, it was built on the site where the old Royal Palace used to stand before it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We had fun posing at the Lisboa sign. Another couple asked us to take their picture and then they reciprocated for us.
The most prominent feature of the square is the Arco da Rua Augusta or “Rua Augusta Arch”. Completed in 1873, it is the gateway between the city and the sea.
We admired the fascinating structure that is the Santa Justa lift (Elevador de Santa Justa). It is sometimes referred to as the “Eiffel Tower of Lisbon” due to its similar ironwork construction and design, reminiscent of Gustave Eiffel’s works. While not designed by Eiffel himself, the lift’s architect, Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, was inspired by Eiffel’s style and techniques. The lift connects the Baixa district to the Carmo Square below and offers panoramic views of Lisbon.
It was inaugurated in the early 20th century. With Lisbon being built on seven steep hills, it was pretty taxing to hike between upper and lower Lisbon so the lift bridged that gap for the residents
Unusual for us, accustomed to packing it in at a relentless pace, we took time to pause and smell the roses. We settled down for our first Pasteis de Natas at Castro-atelier de Pasteis de nata washed down with perfect Americanos
It is a compelling spot, good for people watching and to observe how they make the tarts. The puff pastry is rolled into a tight cylindrical shape and then sliced into rings to make the cases.
“Our Pasteis de nata is of superior quality, with its light crusty pastry and creamy velvety filling. A burst of citric flavours will linger and whet your appetite for more. Greatly improved by the pastry team, Castro’s pastel de nata recipe is faithful to the original, but is notable for the handcrafting of each of its components, the use of premium quality ingredients and the time taken to prepare the filling, which matures for 24 hours before going into the puff pastry cases.”
Our plan was to head to the start of the touristic Tram 28 to get an overview of the city. We reached Praça de Martim and were horrified at the queue! After the airport experience, we were so over queuing! Luckily the line moved quickly and we weren’t required to stand on the tram either. So yes, it’s a quintessential Lisbon experience for visitors : The vintage yellow tram rattles through some of the city’s most picturesque neighbourhoods, through the areas of Graca, Alfama, Baixa and Estrela. Beautiful colourful buildings on steep, narrow streets with sharp curves, that gave us a taste of the gorgeous experiences that awaited us over the next few days.
Due to the increased in tourism, the importance of the historic tram picked up once again. Closure of the entire network was therefore no longer a possibility. The trams now run through many of the narrow streets, where buses can’t venture.
Just as we were considering getting off the tram because we recognised that we were approaching our ‘hood, the tram reached the end of its route everyone got off! We had a short stroll back to our home.
Geoff did some research on breakfast places and we took a stroll to the place while frequently enticed by charming photographic opportunities and when we stumbled on Miradoura de Catarina, spectacular views over the city!
Breakfast was at Sage. We had eggs and fresh juices and enjoyed relaxing in a sunny window seat while reviewing our Lisbon bucket list.
Our plan was to head off to LX Factory for the afternoon. But once again we found ourselves lured in various directions as picturesque opportunities lured us off route. Centuries ago the Tagus River estuary was far wider. The space available along the riverfront of the Portuguese capital has multiplied after subsequent reclamation interventions were carried out over time. We found some buildings with fascinating modern architecture. Firstly in this strip of reclaimed land stands the new central headquarters of EDP – Energias de Portugal – one of the main electrical groups in Europe, and the largest in Portugal.
The building is organized in two narrow blocks connected by sloping footbridges that enclose a shaded public square with an auditorium and multipurpose halls below. Both the facade and the canopy of the square are wrapped by variable louvres that, on one hand, protect the interior spaces from sunlight and, on the other, give the complex a striking appearance and an impactful presence. For once it was ideal to be taking pictures at midday as the sunlight through the louvres create a dramatic visual scene. We had fun relaxing on the terrace enjoying the interplay of light and shadow.
Across the street was another mesmerising building, EDP Sede II, designed by acclaimed Chilean architect Alejandro Aravena and his firm Elemental. This project is described as “a remarkable fusion of bold design and sustainable solutions, meeting the demands of the modern world.” The approach to designing this, was about balancing monumentality with functionality. The building, has imposing lines and a massive concrete facade, conveying strength and dynamism.
Although we only saw the dramatic facade, the building’s interior apparently surprises with its bright, spacious areas, carefully crafted for comfort and sustainability. The design incorporates the latest energy-efficient technologies, including natural cooling systems and solar energy.
We also stumbled into a beautiful hidden courtyard and garden. The trains were apparently on strike but eventually we got ourselves onto a bus heading in the right direction.
Once an old industrial textile complex, LX Factory is now home to some of Lisbon’s trendiest restaurants, bars, and shops. Located beneath the dramatic heights of the Ponte de 25 Abril Bridge, the revitalised hotspot resembles a village where you can walk down cobbled streets and admire the street art adorning the walls of old warehouses. In many ways it reminded me of a sophisticated version of Joburg’s Maboneng precinct.
We wandered through the colourful shops and stumbled on an amazing bookshop called Livraria Ler Devagar, housing a three-story printing press. Suspended above the entrance is a kid speeding through the air on a bicycle with wings. It felt very Harry Potter meets Chitty Chatty Bang Bang. I adored the impressively high bookcases and slanted walkways. The store has a collection of over 40,000 new titles and nearly 10,000 second-hand books.
Lots of cool and colourful things to buy. Mostly quite quirky and zany. Delightful surprises around every corner.
We stopped for cocktails, enticed by the Happy Hour that runs for several hours 😆 as well as the amazing gourmet pizzas on offer making it impossible to choose.
Ordered a pizza, an Aperol spritz and an Italian stallion followed by caipirinhas and a porn star. Our pizza never came until we followed up and then we devoured it like we were starved.
Took the bus back to Cais dos Sodre and walked up the familiar hill. En route we passed a Fado musicians memorial at mural dos fadistas. Home for a snooze and recharge.
Too shattered to go out for sunset shots, we ended up going straight out for supper. However we still felt far too full from the pizza so decided to have a light meal at a bistro in our street. Delightful tapas-like dishes. I had burrata and tomato salad with croquettes. Geoff had the octopus salad. Just what we needed – light and delicious.
WEDNESDAY
Up early to have a quick brekkie of coffee and mini croissants (Manolitas) with Brie and prosciutto and Pasteis de nata before meeting our tour guide for our 4-hour excursion.
The Tuk tuk trip costs €300 for 4 hours. Our guide came highly recommended on my Lisbon FB groups.
Paula drives a conspicuous bright pink vehicle known as the Flamingo. 🦩
She greeted us warmly and tossed a “Don’t worry about seatbelt, I’m a very safe driver!” over her shoulder as we careered into the traffic, her grey curls wild and windswept.
The plan was to do the 4 hour, 7 hills trip which morphed into street art and chasing down some spectacular works. We also covered amazing view sites of city vistas (Miradouro), churches, colourful houses, statues, bridges, trams 🚃, and famous buildings like the National pantheon, Lisbon cathedral, Houses of Parliament.
Lisbon is yet another city that was devastated by an earthquake.
Convento do Carmo (below), unlike much of the rest of Lisbon, was never rebuilt. The monastery was founded in 1389 and much of the church was constructed in the 15th century, with touches and upgrades over the years, until 1755. We could appreciate the devastation of the earthquake as the skeletal remains of the gothic vaulted ceiling arches and shattered window frames linger as a reminder of what this place once was.
“The 1755 Lisbon earthquake, also known as the Great Lisbon earthquake, impacted Portugal, on the morning of Saturday, 1 November, around 09:40 am. The quake led to fires which were fuelled by the prevalence of the wooden buildings and then further devastation resulted from the tsunami, ultimately almost completely destroying the city and adjoining areas killing approximately 40 – 60 000 people. Seismologists estimate the magnitude around 7.7 or greater.”
“King Joseph I and Portugal’s prime minister, immediately launched efforts to rebuild the city. It took nearly a year just to clear the city of debris.
In keeping with urban planning of the time, the authorities wanted the new city to be perfectly designed. They commissioned planners to develop large squares, wide avenues and geometrically planned streets. Paula explained that these more uniform buildings did not sit well with the flamboyant Portugese residents who subsequently added differentiating style in beautiful wrought iron balconies, bright colourful facades and the introduction of tiles which also provided insulation. The tiles known as Azulejos, helped regulate the temperature inside the buildings and were most importantly fire-resistant.
Portuguese tiles are renowned for their intricate designs and meticulous attention to detail. Each tile tells a story, often reflecting the history and culture of the building it adorns. Whether it’s a chapel, a church, a monastery, or a simple house, Portuguese tiles are carefully selected to reflect the essence of the structure. These tiles are not only used in homes but are also popular in residential and commercial projects for their aesthetic appeal and durability.
The tuk tuk trip was a hoot! Close to the action yet slow enough to take pictures. We rejoiced in the fact that we would never be covering this amount of ground on foot. Paula felt nothing for holding up the traffic while we stopped for a photo op. On one occasion she had to get out of the way of an approaching tram rather swiftly. Mostly the other drivers were super patient. The tuk tuk’s handbrake appeared to be non existent, so Geoff was in charge of popping a cobblestone behind the wheel whenever we stopped on a steep incline (of which Lisbon has many!) although Paula was adept at parking at a jaunty angle against the curb to prevent a roll away…
Lisbon City Council has pioneered an active role for public art in its drive for urban renewal, so it’s no wonder that the Portuguese capital is more colourful and artsy than other European towns. The streets of Lisbon are a blend of traditional and modern, derelict and cutting-edge. The artists who claim the walls seem to capture this in their work, often bringing together unique mediums and techniques.
“Projects such as Underdog and The Crono Project have sought to bring new talent to light and new life to abandoned buildings. Inspiring murals, sculptures, and political messages can crop up in the most unexpected spaces.”
Artur Bordalo, known professionally as Bordalo II, is a Portuguese street artist and self-described “artivist”. His work consists mainly of large installations and murals made from recycled trash, with the intention of highlighting the waste and over-consumption prevalent in our world today. We particularly enjoyed his clever and engaging pieces and sought them out all across the city.
Poseidon Mural by Pichiavo at Santa Apolonia station. (below left)
PichiAvo is a duo of Spanish artists (Pichi & Avo), recognised for their ability to establish relationships between classical art, architecture, sculpture and scale.
We saw many references to 25 April which we learnt was the date of the Carnation Revolution. On 25 April 1974, an almost-bloodless military coup brought down more than 40 years of dictatorship in Portugal. It had been marked by strict social controls and financial hardships, where the people struggled to make ends meet.
“Celeste, a waitress saw the tanks and asked the soldiers what was going on, they replied: ‘It’s a revolution!’. A soldier asked her for a cigarette, but she had none and everywhere was closed. The only thing she had was the flowers for the restaurant – so she placed a bloom in the muzzles of the soldiers’ guns, and became known as Carnation Celeste. The population took to the streets to celebrate the end of the dictatorship, and others followed suit, with carnations being placed in the guns and on the soldiers’ uniforms, and thereafter guns with flowers became an iconic symbol of peace.”
Paula issued us with a substantial amount of “homework”. Places to visit, things to explore. It was overwhelming. When travel bloggers say you need 3 days in Lisbon, they haven’t scratched the surface! When I suggested to Paula that “we need a month!”, she said “no – you need at least two!”
