After a jam-packed day in central London, where aside from a little bit of photography, we spent our day visiting the Bank of England (unsuccessfully) and some bureaux de change (more successfully) in order to swap out our outdated pound notes.
Coincidentally, we were able to spend a leisurely afternoon and evening with Gill, out from Australia, who was visiting family and friends. Such an extraordinary unplanned, stroke of good timing! Gill was staying at the Langham hotel off Oxford Circus and we enjoyed the luxury of Le Club while sipping champagne, nibbling and talking-non stop. We returned for a delightful dinner before having a well earned sleep at the NOX hotel in Kensington Gardens.
Then it was an early start that involved getting a tube to Liverpool Station (it was apparently beyond the realm of reasonable expectation for NOX to call a cab for their guests); then (due to a horrific rail fatality) we had to get a bus to Stansted airport instead of the train. We were flying Ryan Air to Palermo, Sicily’s cultural, economic and tourism capital.
Palermo welcomed us with gorgeous blue skies, sunny weather and a beautiful mountain backdrop.
Our gracious hosts from Elysius Apartments had arranged a Taxi (euro 50) right to our door. And what an apartment! Modern fittings in a building overlooking a gorgeous square with historic buildings that was transformed into an atmospheric nighttime restaurant.
For millennia, Palermo was conquered in turn by Phoenicians, Greeks, Arabs, Vandals, Normans, and Spanish before becoming the capital of Sicily, which would ultimately become part of an Italy unified under Garibaldi in the 1800s. It’s the Mediterranean’s largest island, closer to Tunis than to Rome (and not only in distance), meaning that cultures from the Middle East, Europe, and Africa have influenced everything from its food to its architecture to its dialect.
We wasted no time adapting to Sicilian customs, and after a much needed afternoon siesta, we took a stroll to the nearby piazza where we stumbled on a beautiful 17th century baroque church with a marble interior church, Chiesa di San Domenico, overlooking a fountain.
We learnt that this church houses the tomb of Giovanni Falcone, the judge who spent his life trying to overthrow the Sicilian Mafia. He was assassinated in 1992. The piazza also is home to an impressive department store La Rinascente.
Our hosts had recommended Il Cambusone restaurant and we were able to secure the last table for “Nicoletta” at 7pm. In the meantime we explored the department store with its amazing Christmas displays, we wandered down the Main Street admiring the coloured street lights and we took a stroll through touristy Vucciria (which means “chaos” in the local dialect) market.
Il Cambusone restaurant got us off to a good start! Sicilian cuisine, which we found to be rather different from the Italian food on the mainland, was one of our main reasons for this entire trip.
We toasted our holiday with a glass of Prosecco.
Geoff tried the traditional Bucatini pasta served with a sauce of sardines, raisins and pine nuts. Totally delicious and set the bar very high for the rest of the trip. I had the Vongole with spaghetti. Despite a very minimal sauce and being very al dente, it was tasty and the aromas were delicious. We also enjoyed a salad of baby tomatoes, olives, red onion and anchovies.
It was lovely to wander home, hand in hand through the narrow alleyways back to our accommodation. At night, the streets get even narrower as the cafe owners pull out their tables and hordes of people turn up to enjoy the warm summer evening feasting on Sicilian dishes and delectable sweets, pastries and ice creams. The pavements and piazzas come to life with restaurants and bars spilling out under the trees hung with charming fairy lights.
Our plan for the next morning was to do the Palermo city walk recommended by tour guide, Rick Steve. We headed over to Teatro Massimo where we paused to enjoy a cappuccino.
It is the largest opera house in Italy and the third largest in Europe after the Paris Opera and Vienna Staatsoper. It holds over 1,300 seats and is renowned for its excellent acoustiscs. Inaugurated in 1897, the Teatro Massimo’s construction took over two decades and features a neoclassical style with influences from Greek temples. Although we decided not to take a tour, we read that the interiors are decorated in an art-nouveau style.
We wandered down Via Roma and passed Palermo’s post office, a huge dominating fascist style building with imposing pillars. The size and solemnity of the building lead you to expect a superior form of postal service inside, but apparently nothing could be further from the truth and the chaos inside rivals even the non-existent standards of the SA postal services. I read some mind-boggling reports about the staggering inefficiencies. Nevertheless, I was impressed by the facade.
We wandered on, back through the Vucciria market and the gritty back streets of Palermo
I say “gritty” because Palermo gets a lot of bad press. The ‘rough around the edges’ reputation, runs right through the heart of town. We found the graffitied walls and urban funkiness to be quite colourful and full of character, and saw little of the notorious piles of garbage other tourists had complained about.
Palermo is nothing like Italy because it’s not Italian – it’s Sicilian. There are lots of cars, bikes and noise, with people driving a little crazily. The buildings are closely stacked up next to each other. There’s no question that you’re in a very old city – it’s over 2,700 years old.
It brought to mind this quote:“To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.
The temperatures were around 30 degrees which is warm for mid October and we returned home for a well deserved siesta. I have noticed over the last 24 hours that I may be getting sick – my ears were aching in London and my throat is starting to feel scratchy.
We dragged ourselves out again in the late afternoon, mainly because there is so much to fit in, but also because the sunlight was so gorgeous for photography.
I was inspired, having recently watched Netflix’s Ripley, to explore some of the fascinating places featured in the movie. One of the interesting things about the series is Ripley’s obsession with the artist Caravaggio.
On the night between 17 and 18 October 1969, a magnificent Nativity painted by Caravaggio was stolen from the Oratory of San Lorenzo in Palermo. Despite the efforts of investigators, who took statements from various mafia defectors, all trace of the painting (estimated value €35 million) has been lost. We decided to visit the Oratory and view the replica work that has been installed in its place.
The Oratory is decorated with stuccoes by Giacomo Serpotta illustrating the lives of St Lawrence and St Francis.
Our meanders took us towards an enormous piazza dominated by a huge fountain. It is known as Fontana Pretoria and was built in Florence in 1544 then sold to the city of Palermo. The fountain had to be disassembled into 644 pieces for transportation. Then, in order to make room for the fountain, several buildings were demolished which caused quite a furore at the time.
However when the fountain was restored in the piazza, the cavorting naked statues caused more outcry, particularly as the nuns from the convent had to look out at this atrocity, right below their windows. The fountain became regarded as depicting the corrupt municipality of Palermo. The square became known as “Piazza della Vergogna”(Square of Shame).
The best thing about Piazza della Vergogna, is that it is home to the monastery of Santa Caterina and home to the oldest dolceria, I segreti del chiostro (Secrets of the Cloisters) It is here that the most legendary Cannoli was perfected.
Cannoli is a Sicilian pastry consisting of a tube-shaped shell of fried pastry dough, filled with a sweet, creamy filling containing ricotta cheese
We allowed only one cannoli each, as our food journey had only just begun. We headed towards Ballaro market for lunch
Mentioned in texts from as far back as the Middle Ages, Mercato di Ballarò is Palermo’s oldest, liveliest and most multicultural market. It centers around Via Ballarò, where shops and makeshift bars sell a Sicilian cornucopia: swordfish, shrimp, pistachios, nougat, spices, beef cuts, olives and more. Street food also abounds, from fried fish to cow spleen sandwiches, a Sicilian specialty.
We were after the Palermo classic of arancina – a buttery, deep-fried rice ball with ham and cheese. We chose a few other delicacies and settled down to enjoy despite the over-touristy, shouting, chaotic vitality of the surrounds. Sarde a beccafico is another specialty of Sicily. It consists of sardines that are filled with a mixture of breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley, raisins, and pine nuts. Before baking, the sardines are rolled up with the filling and pierced with a toothpick. The sardines taste pleasantly sweet, with bay leaf being the dominant spice. We also indulged in the amazing enormous melanzana slices with a fresh tomato sauce. A little Aperol Spritz and a Limoncello Spritz went down a treat!
Porto di Palermo, is a major port in Sicily. It is also a charming promenade and great place to take photographs. We wandered past the towers of Porta Felice, which flank the road to the left and right and also some impressive buildings from a bygone era.
We meandered along the beautiful marina of La Cala. I learnt that the Phoenicians opened up here for trading purposes around 3000 years ago. The bay was not always so handsome. Even during the Renaissance, Palermo’s harbour did not have a good reputation. The balconies of the buildings near the harbour were deliberately built facing away from the bay so as not to have to look at the eyesore. In recent years it has been transformed from an industrial port into a sophisticated marina. We walked past numerous highly polished sailing and motor yachts and admired the smaller colourful fishing boats.
I discovered that I had left my camera charger in Joburg. After much googling we managed to find a shop on one of the main streets to purchase a new cable. As we wandered along looking for a place to have dinner we ended up in a delightful side street in Funnaco where we decided to have supper at Pizzalab.
What an inspired decision! We were seated outside in the courtyard area of the restaurant and it was so atmospheric to sit beneath the ancient stone buildings. We were joined by a most charming gato 
. He was friendly and engaging and quite happy to be stroked and settle down with us. Turns out he does not belong to the restaurant, but pitches up every evening to make friends with the diners.
We had the most glorious food and wine.
We started with caprese salad with burrata. We ordered two pizzas, one with mortadella and another with prosciutto, mushrooms and buffala.
We were in food heaven. The pizzas were that perfect puffy, crispy edged yumminess, yet with a light and juicy filling. And we had the perfect dining companion. Couldn’t be happier!
Unfortunately, I awoke with a sense that my flu wasn’t going to be seen off with a dose of Corenza C. I gargled with salt water and pushed thoughts of being sick aside, as we headed for the next series of attractions.
The Quattro Canti is the beating heart of Palermo, steeped in history and with intricate artistic design. It is where Palermo’s four main streets converge, creating a central meeting place and sadly, back in the Spanish days, it was even the setting for public executions.
Each corner has a fountain at street level. Looking up from the fountains, are statues representing the four seasons. Above them are carvings of Spanish kings looking down on their subjects. At the very top are statues of patron saints of Palermo. It’s known as the “Theatre of the Sun” because at least one of its facades is always bathed in sunlight throughout the day.
Obviously we were forced to go back to Fontana Pretoria for breakfast – to enjoy another delectable Cannoli at the convent. We were waiting patiently at the front of the queue when the doors opened at 10am!
After relaxing in the garden with a coffee and an our treat, we took a wander to visit some of the most spectacular churches, all located in close proximity.
First we visited the Church of the Martorana, also known as the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio or Church Amarillo.
The church is a blend of Byzantine and Norman influences and is famous for its glittering gold mosaics, including depictions of biblical scenes like the Stories of Mary, Christ, and the Annunciation. It was completed in 1143 and is protected as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Right next door is beautiful Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria
This grand Catholic church also has ornate decor and a collection of precious artworks. Built as part of a Dominican convent in the 14th century, the church showcases intricate frescoes, elaborate stucco decorations, and vibrant marble inlays that make its interior a masterpiece of Baroque design. One of the highlights is the beautifully decorated dome, which also offers sweeping views of Palermo from its rooftop terraces.
The Church of San Cataldo alongside features Norman architecture with Arab influences, showcasing three red domes and minimalistic interiors with stunning mosaics.
Built in 1160 during the Norman period, it has become a graphic icon of Palermo as a multi-ethnic city. Although externally quite plain, the interior is very evocative and the mosaic floor is original.
All churched out, we headed down Via Vittorio Emanuele, which is the oldest street in the Palermo. Its creation dates back to the foundation of the city by the Phoenicians and was the main street that connected the area of the port with the necropolis, located just outside the walls of the ancient city. Just when we thought we were safe from churches, we came upon Palermo’s cathedral which was founded in 1185.
The Cathedral is a peculiar blend of geometric patterns, cupolas and arches, due to multiple reworkings over the centuries, but remains a prime example of Sicily’s unique Arab-Norman architectural style. We decided not to go inside this one, but enjoyed wandering around the exterior looking at the statues and the enormous float of St Rosalia (patron saint of Sicily), parked alongside the cathedral.
2024 marks the 400th anniversary of the discovery of the miraculous remains of Santa Rosalia. According to legend, Rosalia appeared to a hunter, to whom she indicated where her relics could be found. Rosalia’s remains were located and carried around Palermo three times in procession, (as she had requested in her apparition to the hunter), after which the plague ravaging the city immediately ceased.
We continued up the hill towards the Palace.
Since its inception, the Norman Palace has served as the seat of power for the rulers of Sicily. These rulers’ influence extended across Europe and the Mediterranean. I was quite surprised at the expansive size. On the second floor is the exquisite Palatine Chapel. The chapel is completely adorned – from the walls to the ceiling in glittering mosaics that tell stories from the Bible. This capela is a masterpiece of Arab-Norman art. It is also regarded an amazing symbol of multicultural cooperation- where craftsmen of three different religious traditions worked alongside each other to achieve the dazzling mosaics. Religious statues and frescoes are packed into the small space. We also admired the stunning Islamic-style vaulted ceiling that is its masterpiece.
A further wander through he palace lead us to the Punic walls. This site is one of the oldest of its kind preserved in Palermo. (Possibly Phoenician circa 700 BC)
Outside in the garden, a statue of the Spanish King Philip V stands on the pedestal of the monument in front of the Norman Palace. Apparently it was originally of Phillip IV but when it was heavily damaged the head was simply replaced with head of Philip V.
My sore throat was steadily getting worse and led us to buy a throat spray from a chemist.
We paused for lunch at one of the many delightful restaurants that flank the pavement in Via Vittorio Emanuele. Touristy area, but nice to sit and watch the people swarm past while admiring the cathedral.
We had a panini sandwich stuffed with mortadella cheese, pistachio and honey, and the Italian drink of summer, another Aperol Spritz.
Sicily is unfortunately synonymous with the Mafia. We wandered into the No Mafia museum where we read about the history and the terror of the height of the reign.The museum is dedicated to Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, two anti-crime leaders who were murdered within 57 days of each other by the Sicilian mafia. It has lots of exhibits in the form of documents, videos and photos. It is an amazing eye opener about the Mafia and its history.
The Sicilian Mafia, also known as Cosa Nostra (“Our Thing”), is a criminal organization that emerged in the mid-19th century in Sicily, Italy, during a period of social and political upheaval and a weak central government. Some historians trace its roots even earlier to private armies hired by absentee landlords. These groups, initially protectors, evolved into powerful entities that extorted landowners and eventually controlled much of the local economy through violence and a code of silence known as “omertà.”
By the early 20th century, the Mafia had become a significant power in Sicily, branching into various illicit activities. Attempts by the Italian state to suppress it, most notably under Mussolini’s fascist regime, had temporary effects. After World War II, the Mafia adapted, focusing on urban areas, construction, and new criminal enterprises like cigarette smuggling and later, the drug trade. The latter half of the 20th century saw internal wars and increased state efforts to combat the Mafia, particularly after the assassinations of anti-mafia magistrates in the 1990s.
Today, while significantly weakened by decades of law enforcement efforts, the Sicilian Mafia remains a resilient criminal organization. Recent large-scale arrests in early 2025 indicate ongoing activity and attempts to restructure and regain international influence. They continue to engage in traditional activities like extortion, but are also diversifying into areas like online gambling and white-collar crime, exploiting economic vulnerabilities and corruption. Younger members are being recruited, and encrypted communication methods are employed. Despite significant blows, authorities acknowledge that the fight against the Sicilian Mafia is far from over.
On my bucket list for Palermo was the Cappuccini catacombs, located a bit further out of the city centre (a 30 minute walk). Rapidly running out of energy we opted to take a taxi after we learnt that a taxi cost E25 return, but was quoted E30 for a tuk tuk one way!
Palermo’s blood-curdling side was evident long before the mafia! In the Cappuchin Catecombs we were introduced to 8000 dead bodies hanging from the walls, hooks in their backs and a wire around their chest to keep them from toppling forward onto us. With their slackened jaws, it gave the impression that they were screaming.
The oldest bodies were 17th century monks. In the 19th century it became fashionable for prosperous citizens to pay the Capuchins to place deceased relatives in the catacombs. Families would visit, dust down the corpse, and replace any clothing that had rotted. They had to keep paying the Capuchins, and if they fell behind, the bodies would be removed and set aside until the account was paid up in full. The corridors were divided into categories such as men, women, virgins, children, priests, monks, and professionals e.g. lawyers, doctors.
The last burials in the Capuchin Catacombs date back to the 1920s and 1930s. One notable interment from this period is that of Rosalia Lombardo, who died of pneumonia and was younger than two years old at the time of her death. Hers is one of the most well-preserved mummies in the Catacombs.
Visiting the Capuchin Catacombs is not so much about being morbid or depressing. It was a sobering reminder of our mortality and a glimpse into the history, and the lives of people who lived generations before us.
All that intensity called for a Tiramisu gelato which was rich and creamy as only the Italians can make. We got home late afternoon, missing our siesta. Everywhere Aperetivo hour was already starting
We needed to purchase a Sim for our phone ahead of our road trip. Geoff did some research and being alerted for scams, selected to go to a Vodaphone store where we secured what we thought was a good deal (only to discover later that we overpaid by 20 euro)
We had an unsuccessful shopping spree at La Rinascente, where we were attempting to buy a fragrance for Geoff (Rabanne black robot) but the service was beyond chaotic and eventually we abandoned the effort and headed off for dinner before we got too ‘hangry’.
Booking for a restaurant is tricky, because everything is closed in the afternoon for siesta and thereafter we found that the recommended ones were fully booked. Reservations were only available after 9pm, which was a little too late. We decided to wander the streets and hopefully stumble on something interesting. Gosh – not so easy. As soon as we saw somewhere appealing, we were advised that they were fully booked. Eventually we stumbled on La Vizietto, a delightful family spot packed to the hilt, but they went out of their way to make place for us, even though that involved being half way out into the street! I had the sardine and pine nut pasta served with a delicious seasonal apple caponata. Geoff had a prawn and pistachio pasta dish which was delicious.
Really tired and pleased to get to bed and hopefully recover from all the fluey aches.
Up early and a prearranged taxi took us to Palermo airport to get our hire car from Avis. We then took a drive to the hilltop Sanctoria di S. Rosalie. It’s situated high up on a cliff overlooking Palermo. The church is cut right into the grotto providing an unusual and special altar. Mass was in session and lots of tourists around. I was interested to see another location from the Ripley series.
